The Autumn/Winter 2019 shows were many, many things. It was clear, fashion designers hadn’t spent the last six months simply fluffing the drapes.
The cacophony of new – and, we'll admit, sometimes confusing – trends seemed to mirror the chaos of the daily news. Old and new powers coexisting as stiff, awkward bedfellows.
There were jarring moments: the gilets jaunes protests on the Paris streets for economic justice, as designers unveiled dress codes inspired by the super-rich; the two steps forward, one step back momentum of diversity and inclusivity, and so on.
The cacophony of new – and, we'll admit, sometimes confusing – trends seemed to mirror the chaos of the daily news. Old and new powers coexisting as stiff, awkward bedfellows.
There were jarring moments: the gilets jaunes protests on the Paris streets for economic justice, as designers unveiled dress codes inspired by the super-rich; the two steps forward, one step back momentum of diversity and inclusivity, and so on.
So, full disclosure, there’s no neat and easy new look (although the super brands did agree that their obsession with courting Gens Y and Z with sportswear and trainers is now over). So put down your Balenciaga dad sneakers forthwith.
AW19 is instead a kind of pivot point. Diversity of all kinds (opinion, thought, aesthetic) is on the rise in fashion as well as in zeitgeist. The shows were simply recognition of the fact that there are many different forms of power and ways to design for them.
The Monster Mash
This is the Monster Mash... set to be a high-street smash. This is the kitsch B-movie iteration of goth.
It’s Boris Karloff in Frankenstein, appearing as prints at Prada; it’s 1960s TV shows like The Addams Family and Munsters. Think Wednesday Addams (as some designers literally did, looking at the Prada woman’s hair), and the raised boulder shoulder of Uncle Fester at Louis Vuitton.
The Look: black, of course, but with bold-coloured accents. The look has the graphic impact of vintage movie posters with a palette of lurid yellows and greens, and bright blue, red and purple. Key pieces include a black kick-hem midi dress, tops with swirling graphics or stripes and lug-sole boots.
Go For Glamour
The Monster Mash
This is the Monster Mash... set to be a high-street smash. This is the kitsch B-movie iteration of goth.
It’s Boris Karloff in Frankenstein, appearing as prints at Prada; it’s 1960s TV shows like The Addams Family and Munsters. Think Wednesday Addams (as some designers literally did, looking at the Prada woman’s hair), and the raised boulder shoulder of Uncle Fester at Louis Vuitton.
The Look: black, of course, but with bold-coloured accents. The look has the graphic impact of vintage movie posters with a palette of lurid yellows and greens, and bright blue, red and purple. Key pieces include a black kick-hem midi dress, tops with swirling graphics or stripes and lug-sole boots.
Go For Glamour
This is all about the Bright Young Things, those swinging-from-the-chandeliers debutantes from the 1920s and 1930s, seen through the prism of the 1970s.
From slinky slips to sequin frocks, this is high-shine hedonism with a curve-caressing bias cut or kick-flip hem. This is XL glamour.
The Look: shine bright in silk, satin and sequinned dresses and skirts that fall to the ankle. Dip your toe into the trend with.............SEE MORE